Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Diving Update

In the Guam post, I alluded to the fact that there would be a new diver joining the ranks of the Taipei expat scuba faithful. I am now well underway with my certification, and I recently made a trial "discovery" dive off the coast of Bali, Indonesia. As first dives go, I have to say, IT ROCKED!! On the van ride up to the dive site, the folks with me asked if I was nervous. I told them I was actually more anxious about leaving my kids back at the hotel kids' club, so I think that took my mind off the descending-30-feet-breathing-air-from-a-tank thing. Upon arrival, I got 20 minutes or so of basic instruction from the Balinese guide. Unfortunately, I could not understand a word he was saying. If you have ever watched Finding Nemo, you'll remember the scene where the young sea turtle is giving last minute instructions for exiting the East Australian Current. In a panicky voice Marlin says, "Wait, I know you are trying to tell me something but I can't understand you..." before plunging into the unknown. Yep, kind of the same feeling. In truth, I could tell from his hand motions what he was talking about regarding equalizing ears and mask, not holding my breath, etc., and I did ask him, "You are going to stay with me the whole time, right?" And with that reassurance we began our descent.

Well, sort of. The instructor and fellow-novice diver Lance began deflating their BCD's and descending. My buoyant self continued to float at the surface without sinking. Then to float with my rear end at the surface like a neoprene buoy while my head descended. Then to flip unceremoniously onto my back with my fins in the air. The instructor worked with me on buoyancy control but finally just grabbed my hand and pulled me slowly down under the water with frequent reminders to clear my ears. At one point he reached down to the gently sloping bottom and began picking up rocks to shove in my BCD to add more weight. I cracked up, then wondered if laughing under water would harm me in some way and stifled my giggles.

At last I stopped thinking about the mechanics of the descent and began to explore the reef, soft fan corals waving gently, crabs and urchins clinging to the hard coral, fish everywhere. At about 10 meters, we kneeled on the sandy bottom and simply watched the life around us. I was in the middle of a school of gray and white fish who seemed suspended like I was, simply watching the reef. I looked up through them as one might look up through falling rain drops, and I felt the strange sensation of being in a child's snow globe at a moment just after someone has shaken it but before the glitter falls down. Spectacular.

After about 30 minutes we began the gentle ascent. I had experienced a few moments of over-awareness of my surroundings--in other words, too much realization of where I was and where my air was coming from--but was pleased that I had been able to slow my breathing, relax and force myself to focus on the marine life. It seemed to take forever to reach the surface and my calf was cramping a bit from kicking the wrong way. Just as I was about to point this out to the guide, I noticed a familiar face looking smiling at me around his snorkel. I realized it was McLeod and that I was at the surface without even knowing it. I found myself laughing into my regulator again. This time I didn't stifle it or the whoop of triumph that came out when I popped above the surface.

Now back in Taipei, I am fortunate to have my buddy Cathy taking certification classes with me from a great PADI instructor located only a short walk from where I live. My hope is to complete everything including my open water dives on the north coast before I leave Taiwan for the summer. Not sure how much diving I'll be doing in central Alabama but I hear there's an old cargo plane sunken on the bottom of Lake Martin...


With the instructor and fellow-diver Lance from Boston.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Orangutans, Giant Lizards and the Royal Treatment in Kota Kinabalu

If Guam was McLeod's scuba playground, then Kota Kinabalu in Maylasia was my day spa, with just enough adventure to keep me from being permanently cemented to my lounge chair. Referred to simply as KK by the expat community, this beach town on the island of Borneo was the perfect escape from Taipei's incessant winter rains. We settled in at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort for the week of Chinese New Year and found it to be a good choice for families with young children. We were enchanted by the orangutans living in the protected rainforest area next to the resort. The resort works with other conservation efforts on the island to care for orphaned or injured orangutans and then reintroduce them into the wild. The kids and I have put together a Voicethread for you on our time at this beautiful, jungle-covered island. Flip through the pictures using the arrows or play as a slideshow to hear the commentary.